Paraty

Days 1 to 3



Photographs and Commentary by Debra Jan Bibel


     Music / Música Caipra (Minas Gerais) :Bicho Calango  [Pereira da Viola / Tera Boa  / PVC]:2.5 min excerpt

     Music  / Bossa Nova:  Luar  [Carol Saboya / Bossa Nova  / Aosis]: 3 min excerpt


Viewing / Copying/ Saving/ Sending/ Printing

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Paraty is the geographical and cultural equivalent of Foça, Turkey, in size, architectural quaintness, historical import, scattered scenic offshore islands, fishing, and tourist schooners. Likewise, the more upscale costal  city of Buzio, Brazil, is similar to Bodrum, Turkey. Located between Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo, Paraty was the harbor to the mineral wealth of the interior. On our drive to the city we viewed from the road many coves of attractive towns and marinas. Paraty offers a taste of old, Portuguese Brazil. Shops were filled with fine handcrafted objects and also tourist junk. I was not impressed with the art in the few galleries but was attracted to one artist's work in a cafe. Three of our group went on a schooner ride to various offshore islands. I made a similar trip in Foça and Bennett is a lifelong sailor; hence we declined.


We left Rio de Janeiro on a hired jitney care of our Hotel Capa Sul desk staff. We arrived in late afternoon on election day in Brazil. Here at a local party headquarters, people are already celebrating victory. Political enthusiasts gather. At night they would celebrate with fireworks and skyrockets. The Old City is composed of streets lined with such uniform buildings with doors leading to a wide variety of shops and restaurants. The streets are hazards, as their cobblestones are actually coarse, large, irregular, and high. Walking was very difficult. They were essentially pedestrian speed bumps. Brazil has plenty of those on roads and even highways. Our posada or inn. Our residence is situated along a canal. Tropical foliage made attractive landscaping, but beyond, Nature's own planting offered beauty.

This tree, for instance, is on the nearby hill.

Bennett, Steve, and I set out for the city's airport, a runway with support buildings. On the way we view colorful homes. Other examples  painted with the standard medium intensity pastels. An airplane readies to take tourists on a scenic ride.

Beechcraft King C-90 turboprop.

A donkey card at the end of picturesque way.

Along the harbor. Many hued party and fishing boats. A view toward the open sea. The 1722 church Santa Rita dos Pardos Libertos, for freed mulattoes, one of several old churches in the city. Detail of nearby building. A shaded plaza.
Our posada's fountain. Each posada room had a hammock on the veranda. Such pleasure and comfort swinging gently in the shade of a hot Brazilian day. Nap time. A detailed view from my hammock. Closer still On the other side. More trees and shadows.
A close-up of previous image. Still from my hammock, I photographed this colorful arrangement. More line, light, and shadow. Tall trees above the canal. Bennett "relaxing" at poolside with his iPhone, a tether to the world of commerce and politics. The pool and adjacent bar and breakfast room.
Tropical flower. For one dinner we went in the old section and found a wonderful large  restaurant, Margarida Cafe, that had wooden beams, table and life music. This guitarist played familiar bossa nova. The restaurant also showed some artwork that resembles my own. Example 2. A third painting. Yet another.
Walking along the canal on the other side. Looking across to our posada. The palm's seed pods resemble an array of air-defense Hawk missiles. The nearby boat landing seemed to be an artist's palette. A fish sculpture near the harbor's entrance. A more distant perspective.
Another church, Capela de Nossa Senhora das Dores, built in 1800 for the white elite. At the entrance of the estuary. Toward the Atlantic. Sailboat at anchor. Bird of Paradise. Another species of Bird of Pardise, both in the garden of the posada.
Some of the ground plants. One of the island-hopping schooners.
 

(photo by D. Berland)

Our last night in Paraty. The canal. We leave for Rio de Janeiro airport once again to make our flight to our next destination. Instead of a public bus, we discovered a proper shuttle service: Paraty Tours via Hostel / Pousada Misti Chill.  One of the lovely coves along the way. Another inlet.   
           
           

© 2012 Debra Jan Bibel

 

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Appendix: Food