ISTANBUL - 2
Photographs and Commentary by Debra Jan Bibel
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The Blue Mosque / The Sultan Ahmet Mosque Music: Garden at Topkapi [Brian Keane / Süleyman the Magnificent / Celestial Harmonies]: 3 min excerpt
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This is a view from our hotel's terrace, where we had breakfast. Nice! | We are in Istanbul and across the way is also Istanbul. That side is Asia. We are in old Byzantium's Constantinople. | The tall office buildings across the Bosphorus indicate that the Asian side is a more modern city. | Norik wanted this photo to document his travel to Istanbul. Although in these days, images are not trustworthy, I will attest that the great shvi and duduk master was indeed here. | Further south. | View at the far right from the terrace. |
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Walking up to the next roof of the hotel, the view is extended. |
Looking toward the Marmara Sea. | On a pleasant day, we eat outside. | The two obelisks in the plaza, one under restoration. |
This Egyptian obelisk was brought to Byzantium in 390 A.D. |
A gift of Emperor Theodosius. |
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A depiction of the Emperor and his entourage. | The minarets of the Blue Mosque dramatically probe the heavens. | We enter the mosque, built between 1609 and 1616.. | The last of the classic style. Chief architect was Sederfkâr Mehmet Aga. | Along the sides of courtyard, the porch alone has beauty. | Doors are constructed with aesthetic care. |
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Another view of the porch walls. The windows vent the student cells of the madrasah, | I have visited the Taj Mahal in Agra, India, and now I have seen the Blue Mosque, another architectural gem. | Shifting left: another interesting perspective. | More drama. | Courtyard fountain. | Inside, we face the vault of stained glass windows. |
The dome's lapis blue background for calligraphy gives the mosque its name. | Lush ornamentation everywhere. | A vertical view. | Junction of vaults. | Floor of the mosque; private prayer space for dignitaries. | Richly colored glass windows, including deep blue he. |
Circular array of vaults under the dome. | The ambo, another form of pulpit, where an official can address the assembly. | The opposite side. The ring of lamps illuminate the worshippers. | A splendid door in a niche. | Inner fountain. | The striped decoration of arches reminds me of the great mosque in Cordoba, Spain. |
A lone worshipper faces Mecca. In the middle of the frame is the minbar, the high staircase and the the pulpit where the imam speaks.. | |||||
The Hagia Sophia
Music: Sticheron of the Vespers of the Dormition [The Glory of Byzantium/ Jade]: 3 min excerpt
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Maya and her mother, Carmeli Haddi. | The recently circumcised lad wears a resplendent, princely costume: the most elaborate we had seen. | Hagia Sophia, former basilica, former mosque, now museum. | Another view. This is the third church in this spot. The current one was begun in 532 A.D. | Byzantine features. Architects were Isidoros from Miletos and Anthemios of Tralles. | Dome of the exterior fountain. |
More Byzantine architectural design. | Early type of flying buttresses. The awkward minaret bases compared to the slender designs of later centuries. | Theodosius II commission. The Lamb of God from the second, destroyed church. | The second part of the frieze. | Side section with arched windows. | Above the Imperial Gate. Mary is left of Jesus, Gabriel at the right. Bowing is either Emperor Leo VI or his son Constantine VII. |
Vault array, gilded and decorated. | Marble slabs with rich grains. | From the portal to the nave. Hagia Sophia refers to Logos/Wisdom and until 1453 was Orthodox Christian [Catholic between 1204 and 1261]. | More elaborate ornamentation in the entrance corridor. | Inside. | The dome with its circle of windows. |
Looking upward to a splendidly painted vault ceiling. | Above the apse, the Virgin and Child remains in the former mosque. | The upper level. | One of four angels in the corner supports of the dome. | The face was scratched out when Istanbul fells to the Ottomans. | Facing the apse. |
Large calligraphic plaque. | The mihrab. | The minbar. | This was created out of a single block of marble. | Displayed mosaics. | Mosaic of Mary. |
A glorious view from the upper level. | Stained glass brightened by the morning sun. | Colonnade. | In the stairwell. | In the southwest entrance, Justin I and Constantine I with the Virgin. | The ceiling. |
Upper level gallery mosaic. Constantine IX Monomachus and Empress Zoe. [Carmen's photo, edited] | |||||
Topkapi Palace |
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But first it is time for lunch. This is an eggplant dish. | The fountain outside the walls. | Close-up of plaque. | The fountain spigot. | Small section of the Palace walls. | Entrance to the first courtyard. |
Another view of the gate. | The first courtyard is the public one, much like a part. The old armory. | Along the way is the Golden Horn estuary. | A pavilion. | The Gate of Respect to the second courtyard, used for ceremonies and administration. | Model of the Topkapi Palace. |
Model seen further back. | Model in full extent. | Second model, larger scale. Left side, with second courtyard. | Second model with middle, third courtyard. | Model, right side. | Looking downward from Gate of Respect. |
With trumpets and drums, a procession of the Ottoman miltary band, mehter. | Behind the flags (the green flag is of Mohammed and Islam), two flanks of musicians. | Red and black costumes. | Large drums. [Marina's photo, edited] | At the entrance to the next gateway (Gate of White Eunuchs) the musicians perform. | Trumpets, reeds, and cymbals. |
The conductor. | A large double-reed zuma. | Inside the Audience Chamber. | Ornate ceiling of arched window. | Inside the Library of Ahmed III. | Window design. |
Another example. | The treasury of rich artifacts and collected gold, jewels, and rich china and vessels. This is the sword of Saladin [Salāh- ad-Dīn] | In the third courtyard | Toward the fourth courtyard, Baghdad Pavilion. This fourth section is of the Sultan's personal accommodations. | 16th-century Iznik tiles. | At the edge of the Palace, a view of the Bosphorus bridge and ferry traffic. |
Baghdad Pavilion, constructed in 1639. | Overly crowded wall with dissimilar features. | In comparison, elegant simplicity. | Toward the Harem and beyond is the paired pavilions. | Scene from Topkapi, the film. Note the famous Topkapi dagger of Mahmud I, 1741, taken by the thieves. Good movie. | |
Evening Jam with Selim Sesler and Son Music: Nikriz sirto [Selim Sesler / The Road to Kesan / Traditional Crossroads]: 3 min excerpt |
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On the second floor of a restaurant, space is created for musicians to play. David and his tambourine. | Jaime and his darbouka. | Norik and his duduk. | Bulent Sesler and his kanun. | Yuval's oud. | Selim Sesler and his clarinet. |
Norik plays clarinet, too, but of a different, more tame but melodious style. | Duduk has the last word. | Sesler is impressed. | The Joy of Music. | Sukhawat and his harmonium. | An exchange. |
Phew! What an exhausting and exhilarating day! | |||||
Mission accomplished. | Group portrait. | These guys are serious. | Yes, a nice meeting of minds. | ||
© 2011 Debra Jan Bibel |